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Warren Dean Rips!

_DSC3699Warren Dean was out there (Supers, where else?), and I must say, he is in seriously good form. I was amazed at how many huge turns he could do and still have time to get slotted in one ride. Looking at the way he is surfing, I think he's got more in mind than just winning the Xcel event. One day when I grow up, I want to surf like Warren Dean.

I daydreamed a bit and thought of the implication if one of our locals actually go all the way chopping big names as they go along. The J-Bay croud would definately go ballistic! There is definately enough talent and ability in the Xcel showdown mix to cause major upheavals in the Billabong PRO this year.

On another topic, my son is turning 4 soon, and I am trying to get him a wetsuit because he is frothing to get in the water. It must be amazing to grow up surfing. I longed to surf all my life, but only started to surf officially when I moved to J-Bay, and now I am presented with the priviledge to raise kids in this beautiful place. After the rush of the day, I went for a late afternoon surf which had a bit of a slow start because I had to find me feet again onthe 6'2 fish. At least my last wave was a screamer and for that fleeting moment I was astral traveling in a place I cannot clearly descibe in words. I don't recall seeing anything, or thinking anything. It was just me and the wave, and the wind rushing past my ears. When it was time to kick out it was like I woke up from a deep sleep and it took me a couple of seconds to just remember where I am, who I am and how fortunate I am to be doing what I am doing. Wow. I have to confess. I am truly addicted.

See you on the other side.

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