For those in the know, we have had some very nice runs of swell the last couple of days. I had a 4 hour session on Monday arvi, and surfed till my arms were jelly and it was almost dark. I knew the surf was going to be nice, but only managed to tear myself away from the computer screen around 15:30. When I got there, I was the only person to paddle out at Tubes. Shannon Ainslie paddled out at the same time, but he went over to Point. I was then joined by a boogy boarder, who went for all the waves I missed. Tubes was breaking lank fast, and I missed about 5 bomb waves because I just could not get into it quick enough.
I see the last update I did on this website was on 8 November! First of all, happy Christ-mas to all of you. My life went for a sudden unexpected turn in November, when I landed a programming contract with a large company through a facebook referral.
We can´t complain so far this summer, with several days of swell. This weekend was no exception. I chose to surf on Saturday, and then did some water shots at Supertubes on Sunday afternoon. Check it out and make your order here.
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