Good old topic this one, but it still makes for heated discussion if merely mentioned casually. I learned a good lesson yesterday morning while surfing Supers. This is a stern warning for visiting surfers, and a good read for locals.

With the advent of moderns swell forecasting and the internet, we almost have no secrets left in JBay. As soon as there is some burb of swell coming through, rented cars from PE and Capetown pops up. By the time we get to the beach, a gazillion guys already paddled out.

JBay is essentially put on the map and kept going by the visiting surfers and the surfer community. Many of us make a living out of surfing related stuff. We're talking all the big brands in town, shapers, ding repairs and whatnot. Visiting surfers also have to eat and sleep somewhere and so the list goes on.

One curse with this blessing is the crowds in the water which we all have to deal with. The swell was just beginning to pick up yesterday, and my previous experience surfing was when I slipped of my board all the time (read previous post) so I was pretty desperate to prove to myself that I am not a complete kook. (Okay, at least I agree that I'm half a Kook, but I've clocked my water time)

We were a couple of local guys out, including Frankie. As locals, we all have some form of Grafting we need to go to, and that little session before work is getting shorter and shorter every day as the season turns. When you are out there and visiting surfers snake and drop in and just catch every possible wave, it gets frustrating. Frankie was getting uptight about it, and one guy extended his hand to greet Frankie, but he just stared the ou down and sat with his arms folded. I had quite a giggle, and then Frankie continued to explain to the guy in no uncertain terms how the pecking order works and who gets to sit where etc. 

Amazingly, couple of guys were spooked, and they moved further down the line. Next thing, he paddled over to me and tuned me that I must not just sit there and allow ous to drop in on me and snake me all the time. If I am a local, I have to stand up, otherwise everybody will just take advantage of me and I will never catch a wave and it sets the wrong pretense. 

Well, I took the advice, and a few minutes later I was on a proper bomb. As I hooted down the line, I saw Frankie paddle back and thanked him for the little pep talk.

If we had all stood up and not allowed things in the first place to get out of hand, it wouldn't be neccesary for Frankie to sort things out. Like the genuine father figure he is, Father Frankie took the punch for being the "bad guy" in the water. 

So remember: If you are a visitor, respect the territory. And if you are a local, stand your ground. When we go and surf at your break, you can treat us in the same way. We do live here, but making a living in JBay is not always that easy for starters, and the last thing we want to do is struggle to catch a wave in our own backyard.

A follow up article was written as a response received from Jay, the guy who was in the incident. Please read on.