( Continued from HuGE Swell Part 1 )
Ya. So there I was floating with foam all around me and my new board totally out of sight. "Any other day a snapped leash would've been fine, but why today of all days?!"I said a few swear words and a few prayers afterward, and then that huge set came through and I got hammered and rolled until I had the CUDFUD (clueless up down foamy confusion disease)
All of us have been anticipating the big swell for a whole week now. We all thought it was going to arrive on Saturday. Amazingly, on Saturday the whole of JBay was a flat as Lake Victoria, and I had to dig deep to eventually find a fun little left somewhere between dolphin 
beach and Secrets. I checked the swell this morning and the lines were clearly visible but waves were still on the small side. After Church, the waves were breaking so big, I could see the choppy faces tower above the buildings as I drove down De Reiger road. At 14:00 I made my way to the beach with my newly acquired 6'6 Safari Spider. I got it at such a bargain, I just bought it impulsively on Saturday.
I parked the Landy at Upper Point and walked all the way past Supers to Beach Break in front of checkers. It was gnarly to say the least. The wind was howling and I had to hold onto my new surfboard for dear life. After a few hectic duck dives, I looked at was was probably the biggest wave I have ever seen at close proximity in my entire life. The lip was coming right at me! I have surfed JBay before on heavy days, but I have never seen such a big wave. I decided not to try and duck dive it because I did not want to snap the brand new board or my backbone. Instead I just slipped of my board, closed my eyes and held my breath. After I came up for breath, I was waiting for the familiar tuck on my left foot. (I am a goofy footer) Nothing. Just as it dawned upon me, a mega set rolled in. I was somewhere between Boneyards and Supers without my board and for a moment I really panicked...
You can click on the photo to see a bigger one. Those little dots in the water are very careful and jelly armed surfers.Yes.I did take a few photos and I will upload them during the next day or so.
Here is the link to the Billabong PRO 2008 gallery so long. I am still naming all the files and deleting the bloopers, so cut me some slack. I must say I did have my brief stint of fame because several people asked me why I have not updated the site with some new photos of the Billabong 2008. It is 01:10 now, and I just did a successful server migration with all 30 of my websites to a dedicated server without any hickups. The next heat starts in a mere 6 hours and my alarm goes off in 5:30 hours, so let me get some sleep.
Oh. One last thing.
GO Jordeeeeeeeeee!
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