For those in the know, we have had some very nice runs of swell the last couple of days. I had a 4 hour session on Monday arvi, and surfed till my arms were jelly and it was almost dark. I knew the surf was going to be nice, but only managed to tear myself away from the computer screen around 15:30. When I got there, I was the only person to paddle out at Tubes. Shannon Ainslie paddled out at the same time, but he went over to Point. I was then joined by a boogy boarder, who went for all the waves I missed. Tubes was breaking lank fast, and I missed about 5 bomb waves because I just could not get into it quick enough.

Fortunately I did manage to get a couple of gems, including the odd barrel or two. The surf just got better and better, and very soon I was joined by more eager surfers who saw me having a good time. Barrel riding is pretty new for me, and I forgot how heavy a 6 footer can get when the lip smacks you behind the head. This one wave I pulled into the barrel right after the takeoff, and it was pretty amazing. I did not pigdog, and just bent over like an old man, but obviously I did not bend low enough, because when the wave offloaded on me, it folded me double and compressed my body into an accordion with almost leaving footprints on the deck. I was pretty broken after that wave. I got a couple of hoots from the other guys, and I should have left, but I kept on surfing for another two hours.

The next morning I woke up with a cold, which were doing rounds in our house and I managed to miss out on all the amazing surf we had up to today. I wanted to go shoot a bit, but just did not have the energy.

One last thing, it looks that there is a big chance I will be doing a trip to Madagascar, but I have to get all the correct ducks in a row first.

See you out there!