( Continued from HuGE Swell Part 1 )

Ya. So there I was floating with foam all around me and my new board totally out of sight. "Any other day a snapped leash would've been fine, but why today of all days?!"I said a few swear words and  a few prayers afterward, and then that huge set came through and I got hammered and rolled until I had the CUDFUD (clueless up down foamy confusion disease)

I even bounced of the ocean bed once. As soon as I got my breath, the next wave would break right on me. After about three waves, I looked for land and was very happy to see my board bobbing towards Cheron's house. Then I realized that my wetsuit does float me and as long as I can inhale and exhale and float I will be okay. I had the thought of drowning and dying, but it never got that bad. As soon as I relaxed, I just did a breast stroke kick on my back like we used to do in life saving back in Natal. Just as I stood up, a "little" foamy helped me to my knees and I kissed the sand. When I looked up, my stick was waiting for me on the dry (kind of) sand and I ran over to re-unite. At closer inspection I found that there was nothing wrong with the leash. I just did not check it before the time. It has one of those plastic rings and because I wear booties, I did not bother to tighten it all the way. Trust me, I will never make that mistake again!