Okay. I have a confession to make,,, I did dress up and go look for waves VERY early on Monday morning 20 October 2008.
When I got there, it was the proverbial "All dressed up and nowhere to go"
Looking at the excitement and all the foreign cars in town, I suspect that others are also suspecting what I am suspecting if you catch my drift. In the end, I think we are all just desperate for surf. I was sick in bed for a whole week with flu and then shingles (no, it is not some STD or something, google it if you don't know!) and so desperate to catch a wave.
As I said, it was flat this morning. Flat as lake Victoria. I paddled out, because it was a wonderful clean morning, and ended up meditating and praying for about an hour. Robby Hift sat a few meters from me, and probably did the same. "Great day for meditating I tell you! Great day man, just clear you mind all up. Great day man" was all he said, and I just nodded in agreement.
I see the swell gurus are up in arms about Global warming (I have my opinion, but this is not the place) and reckons we are going to have cranking swell for the rest of the week. I reckon it's going to be average. Let's see what happens tomorrow at dawnie..
Later
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