I have been surfing much more than taking photos lately.It's difficult when real good juicy waves are hard to come by. Today I missed the dawnie and the onshore messed things up during the day, but after 6PM I made my way to Tubes once again.
I have been surfing there most of the time and find it is less crowded and works better with my 6'6 Spider Garcia model. As I left home, I had my old waterproof digital with me and made a device for it to hang around my neck. So I surfed a few and then shot a few. A German guy was there squeezing the last out of the day, and Jansie, and me. I managed to get three average to good shots in a much shorter time than what I normally do and when it was too dark to surf, we ouched over the mussel bank and the sharp rocks to the safety of the sand.
I also surfed the second time without booties today and yesterday I even scraped about 500gms of old wax from my board before I applied new wax. It's like I am in a new season with my surfing. Everytime I go to Point, I don't enjoy it anymore, and I want the wave to be more hollow. Those little inside ones closer to the rocks are nice, but short. Maybe I am beginning to surf a little better, or maybe my mind is just playing tricks on me?
Either way, I am stoked to have surfed so much in the last three days and to have taken some photos for fun.
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