Two quick notes:
1. As I said, it was crowded and the surf was short lived
2. Surfing is a dangerous sport
One
I dropped by Emile today, who is one of the local ding and overall mucked up surfboard restorarion dudes in town. Lately he also does a lot of dune boards, you must check it out! anyways, we were talking about the little swell that just stayed for half a day, and he reckons there were like 14 guys out at five o in the morning at Supers. He says when he left the place at 8, he counted 34 guys out.
And I was wining because I overslept due to having to handle some difficult issues the previous night. I still though I am going to make way to the surf for lunch, but alas, the East kicked in as forecasted and that was it. I had a great morning session with a borrowed mini mal, (the very first board I surfed properly in JBay I might add) and though the afternoon will be good for the 6'6 but it turned out that the swell was a bit funny and pap. Tubes was quite nice though, and I shouldv'e just gone straight to Tubes and never surfed Point.
Two
Talking about Tubes. Another sad thing that happened is that one guy who has a house in JBay, came to visit from overseas and had a really bad wipe out on Tuesday Morning. Apparently he had broken his back previously and after the wipe some other guys had to drag him over the rocks to get him to safety. (Well done guys, looking out for your fellow surfer) What I have learned is that calamity struck him the day before as his whole house was cleared out in a robbery. This ou is definitely not having a great week at all.
I recall watching another guy get a beating on the bricks just past the car park section at Supers the other day. He basically pulled in on that section where it really sucks up right on the mussels and the wave closed out right on him. Right after the lip smacked him and he got a real hiding, the next wave came and you guessed it, that lip also smacked him on the bricks. By then he looked delirious and a third wave came as he was desperately standing in ankle deep water trying, holding onto his board for dear life, trying to dive out of the way, and you guessed it once again:the lip smacked him. If I had a beating like that, I would cry and go home. Not sure what this guy did, but I have to confess that I did have a good laugh at his wipe out.
Now that I look back, I feel a bit convicted for laughing at another guy getting hammered. Sorry bru, whoever you are. I know I did not find it funny when I got whipped on the rocks in the past.
Getting back to our friend in Hospital, when speaking to Des Sawyer, local Shaper and head of Surfmasters, he said he phoned the hospital in PE and asked if the ou was was okay. They said that he is okay but I don't know if he is okay as in he is not paralyzed or what they mean.
Serious stuff man. I hope he gets better and surfs very soon again, and why don't some of you who read this go find out who it is and give him a visit? Or maybe I should? If you have any info about the incident, please contact me on the drop me a line page on top.
Be careful out there and have fun!
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|