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It gets dark quick

Lately, I've really been grafting hard on some websites and also helping a client to migrate away from Windows to Linux. (Let me rather not go into that, because it is going to become a lengthy discussion. More stuff on Linux: http://www.paulvanjaarsveld.com)

Since I was grafting that hard, I never noticed that we had some pretty nice barrels all day (Thursday 21/05/2009) and as I drove to the mall and back via the R102 behind J-Bay, I noticed that the lines were stacked up and I could see good waves breaking everywhere. 

It was already going towards 15:00 and I made a promise that I would mow the lawn. To cut to the chase, after I mowed the lawn and dropped my wife and son at her parents for a cup of tea, I got suited and paddled out through the keyhole. It was already late, and the sun had just dropped under the dunes behind me. A couple of guys were out, including Ryan and Shaun Payne, Brad, Rasool and guy called Steven who is really good company between sets. 

It was a bit of a creepy experience, because there were thousands of fish and shoals everywhere. We were all a bit cautious and I really did not enjoy the fish that kept on bumping me or ending up in my way as I paddled. I had a couple of nice waves and it started getting dark quickly. As we sat there waiting for the next set, there was a sudden upheaval and commotion in the water. It was about 5 meters from me, and just behind one of the older surfers who sat the highest up. Water splashed and fish flew in all directions. We couldn't make out what it was, but you know what we were all thinking. Everybody was stunned for a couple of seconds. It felt like ages to me though. The only thing that was heard, was the older surfer who immediately turned around and said. "Okay, I' leaving" He promptly paddled to the rocks and I don't know if he was really worried about the channel or anything, but within seconds I saw him doing the starfish.

Still stunned, the silence broke with the emergence of three racing fins towards us and then about fifty dolphins. They rounded the fish up all over the place and it was evident that they take hunting seriously. It seems that they were also competing, twisting and turning and pushing. 

Just that afternoon, I was reading an article about sharks on wavescape.co.za, and how the Jaws movie really messed up the image of sharks. I must say, I agree with the standpoint of the article (nice read, also has some videos here) When I looked at my fellow surfers, they were all very unsettled. I was sort of relieved to see that the dolphins had arrived, because we always believe that the dolphins chase the sharks off and we do share a lot of waves with them in J-Bay. Brad Baker must have seen the relaxing sigh and change of my countenance when I saw the dolphins. He explained to me very quickly that the dolphins aren't really helping us by chewing pieces of fish and going off like that. As he said, when the shoals run, the sharks, dolphins, predator fish and birds all go crazy, everyone for himself. If I was a cartoon, you would probably have seen the exclamation mark above my head!

Not long after that, it became very dark. Our numbers in the water became less, and we were only three or four huys left. I got a wonderful wave and surfed it all the way to the car park section where pulled out with style. Instinctively, or more out of habit, I turned around and paddled back to the lineup. On my way back, I passed one guy and he tuned me: "Hey bru, why are you going back? Are you nuts?" I hesitated a moment, and then saw how dark it had become. As I turned around, I started searching for the illusive keyhole. To my horror, I found that I was about 50 meters past it already and it was pitch dark. That part of the dunes does not have a house, so there's no extra light over there. I waddled around for what felt like ages, and followed this one guy around who turned back towards bone yards when neither of us could see the keyhole. As I was following him, at one point we were close to the shore, and I felt some rocks under me. We were just across the Southern end of the boardwalk. I had enough and so, i just got up and walked my way over the unforgiving rocks. Amazingly, I did not have any cuts or even dinged my board. 

Later that evening, I told my in laws and my wife, Gwen, over a cup of tea about the experience. Their eyes were big and they just shook their heads in shock. As we drove home,I reflected further on the whole experience. I admit that I was a little afraid, and I would n't like leaving earth as result of a shark attack. But what scares me the most was the fact that I did not experience that rush and super kind of fear like I got when my dad was looking for me with the rod in his hand. Maybe I am stupid, or Idid not understand the full consequience of my deeds? I think we were all lucky to get out in one piece. I do believe the whole thing of shark attacks are overrated, but I definately know it is not a good idea to go and surf in the dark, especially with all the fish out. The next day, I left early. Yesterday as well. No taking chances. Shot! See you in the water.

 

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